Soak the dried mushrooms – place them in a bowl and pour 570ml boiling water over them. Leave them to soak and soften for half an hour. Meanwhile, chop the fresh mushrooms into about 1cm chunks – not too small.

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan, add the onion and let it cook over a gentle heat for about 5 min, then add the fresh mushrooms, stir well and leave on one side while you deal with the porcini.

Place a sieve over a bowl, line the sieve with a double sheet of absorbent kitchen paper and strain the mushrooms, reserving the liquid. Squeeze any excess liquid out of them, then chop them finely and transfer to the pan to join the other mushrooms and the onion. Keep the heat low and let the onions and mushrooms sweat gently and release their juices – which will take about 20 min. Meanwhile put the dish in the oven to warm. Now add the rice and stir it around to get a good coating of butter, then add the Madeira, followed by the strained mushroom-soaking liquid. Add a level teaspoon of salt and some freshly milled black pepper, bring it up to simmering point then transfer the whole lot from the pan to the warmed dish. Stir once then place it on the centre shelf of the oven without covering. Set a timer and give it 20 min exactly.

Gently stir in the grated Parmesan, turning the rice grans over. Put the time on again and give it a further 15 min. Serve on warmed plates and sprinkle with shaving of Parmesan.